Blue skies, warm sunshine, throwing beautiful light on the cream-coloured stone houses
Litter galore on the broken pavements and patches of green between roads and buildings
Wadis (valleys) dotted with rocks, rusty cans and olive trees
Hills
Half-finished houses and burnt out cars
Stone steps down to the wadi and back up again
Donkeys and wild dogs
Quaint little houses with overgrowing grape vines and sofas in the yard
A show of force from the Manara square (centre of town) – some Katay’ab* members hanging out of jeeps,
Brandishing snarls and serious guns,
While coffee-drinkers look down from the first floor
“Stars & Bucks” Café
(Does the entrepreneur owner know that the management of the famous chain he’s imitating is Zionist?)
The Katay’ab guys have a megaphone:
They deny responsibility for
A burnt out shop owned by a Hamas supporter – torched some days ago
Women – veiled and unveiled - with children in tow, carry their shopping home
The Muqa’ta - the president’s compound, where Arafat was once under house arrest - under construction and under guard
Green uniforms, bored looks and red berets
The arid botanic garden
The air is pregnant with invisible spies and collaborators, lurking undercover
Pirate DVD heaven
Cries of “Taxi, taxi, taxi?”
Cries of the fruit sellers
Peasant women in traditional dress sitting on upturned plastic buckets and selling
Herbs, figs, pomegranates
A bodybuilders’ emporium and umpteen money changers/ jewellery shops
More guns – small guns, big guns, bigger guns, toy guns, guns with bullets, guns without
Guns on posters, cradled in the arms of martyrs
”Palestine over all” placards on the roundabout
This the idea of some brave local women –
“We want to scream NO to the infighting. This is not what Palestine is about!”
Sha’bab** everywhere – walking, smoking, observing
Drinking Nescafé in plastic cups from street vendors
No jobs, no wife, no life, no future
Jesus wept and Mohammed prayed
Old kuffiya-clad men smoke hookah and play shesh-besh (backgammon)
Beside the hi-tech shop with the plasma screen TVs
And stores selling grain and nuts and strange powdery white rocks kept in white buckets
Looks like chalk,
Tastes like yoghurt
Oh Ramallah!
*Katay’ab is the Arabic term for the Al Aqsa martyrs’ brigades – armed wing of Fateh
**Sha’bab is Arabic term for youth